Alternator

[ColoradoRVHauler]

I think its going out. Its making a howling noise. Sounds like a bad bearing to me. I decided to hold up in Bismarck till I find out my options in the morn.

Napa, autozone dont even sell em.. Orielys has a basic rebuilt for 179, dealer prolly has one for 306, or low mile used is 150.

Dodge parts.com has em for 219, and rock auto in madison has a new delco remy for 248.

I know these alternators use some weird clutch pulley on them. Its hard to play games and push it for a better deal. If the alternator fails and smokes the belt, there I sit on the side of the road.

Thats the drawback to serpintine belts systems only using 1 belt.

I think I may just get the low mile used one. It has 39k miles on it. I hate rebuilt crap cause most of its made in mexico or china.. Mines got 310k and some change on it. A low mile used one would be just fine as long as it didnt get shorted out in a wreck. Will investigate its history in the morn.

Dam, theres a 40k mile used one in rapid city for 50 bucks... Figures, lol

My truck has been nickeling me lately. Getting alot of play in my sterring box also. Im thinking thats next on the list. I hate sterring wheel play.. I bet every dodge truck past 250k has a bunch of steering play if the box hasnt been replaced.

Dodge started using the same box ford has used in super dutys since there inception, so yes.... A dodge sterring box will bolt into a F250-F450 super duty.

Ford guys complain about wheel play too. They are inheratly weak sterring boxes.

Its not leaking so I have been kind of dealing with it for a while.

Need to replace front and rear engine seals too. The whole bottom of my engine is wet. Doesnt drip much, just wet. I hate oil leaks. I got 125k on my clutch so I think its time for a clutch inspection also, will do rear main then.

I can have my tranny out in about 2 and 1/2 hours so no biggie on that.

Carey

[ColoradoRVHauler]

found one for 50 bucks south of bismarck a ways. has 70k on it. Cant remember the town now. lol when my truck has 300k on it, a truck with 70k on it is just a baby.. The wrecking yard has fair prices. Might spend all day there! lol

Boy Im gonna raid his dodge truck parts. Been wanting a set of fuel lines running from the rail to the head too. Seen several guys have em break, you to, Haulin..

If that truck has only 70k on it, Im gonna get me a bunch of lil stuff. Maybe a stearing box too.

Will let ya know how I luck out.

[cumminalong]

Carey,

If you don't have any luck with the alternator, give us a shout and we'll get one to you, overnight if need be.

As for the fuel lines. The biggest reason guys break the fuel lines is because the hold down clamps aren't tight enough, specifically #4.

Just tighten down the clamps with the blue plastic inserts and you shouldn't have any problems out of those.

If anything, pick up the #4 high pressure fuel line. That's the one that usually breaks.

[ColoradoRVHauler]

Ok cool. Dodge parts.com has em for 219 or 206.. Cant remember now. Thats a helluva price on e new one.

I check those isolators every oil change. I put a 8mm wrench on em and make sure they are tight. Ive heard no.4 also. I have talked to a few guys who lost other one though.

Getting enough miles I for sure need to be carrying at least the no.4 line.

I just may get that 50 dollar one so I can get back to elkhart, then maybe get a new one from you Rich. Depends on how many goodies I find at the wrecking yard, lol

Id like to find me a set of used tires, Stearing box, a set of core injectors, and some fuel lines.

I buy one new set of tires a year. I get those right about thanksgiving. I buy AT type tires so Im safe on slick roads. Those are now down to about 6/32nds now. I get 50-60k out of AT tires.

The rest of the year I find used ones. I rarely pay more than 30-40 bucks a tire for tires that have 1/2 to 3/4 tread. I buy them from wrecking yards and used tire shops all over the country. In the summer all I care about is having enough tread to be legal.

There is a local injector shop in Colorado that can rebuild me some injectors for cheap, so I am gonna find me some cores and have em do em up. Got enough miles on these that I know they wont last much longer, and surely arent efficiant anymore.

There webiste says they are the biggest wrecking yard in the dakotas. Its called Kens wrecking in strasburg, nd. Says they have 50 acres of late model wrecks.

I keep breaking wheel studs on my left front too. Cant figure that one out. I keep em torqued to 140 ft lbs.

Those suck cause any dodge dealer wants 15 bucks for a lug nut and 15 bucks for a wheel stud. 30 freakin bucks every time I break one. They just snap going down the highway. Ive replaced 4 and now have another that has broken off.

Weird. Its just the left front wheel. They are easy to fix though. Easy access.

Welp better roll down to the place and see if I win the dice roll.. lol

Thanks Rich! Wil call ya if I dont spend all my money..

Carey

[ccoop769]

I have no steering play in mine. I was considering getting a box of injectors for my 6.7. Think dodge sells them for like $1400 a peice x6. But searching over a few forums and they can be found usually for around $500 for the box of bosch injectors barely used. And these are the complete set, not just tips. I find plenty deals over the forums, just browse all the classifeids and you would be amazed on what deals you can find. Sucks your truck is nickling and diming you know. I hear the 300k mark is when these trucks start doing that. Im right around the bend of that mark, but to be honest, I coundnt tell you 1 thing my truck needs now other then a seal for my rearend which that has been leaking since 150k miles. But i never have to refill it since it barely leaks. I dont even have any type of other leak and she drives perfect. Waiting for my oil sample to come back though. Havent done 1 of those in awhile. Well, we shall see. Good luck to you with your truck, my goal is to put 1 million miles on my 6.7.

[cumminalong]

Ok cool. Dodge parts.com has em for 219 or 206.. Cant remember now. Thats a helluva price on e new one.

I keep breaking wheel studs on my left front too. Cant figure that one out. I keep em torqued to 140 ft lbs.

Those suck cause any dodge dealer wants 15 bucks for a lug nut and 15 bucks for a wheel stud. 30 freakin bucks every time I break one. They just snap going down the highway. Ive replaced 4 and now have another that has broken off.

Weird. Its just the left front wheel. They are easy to fix though. Easy access.

Welp better roll down to the place and see if I win the dice roll.. lol

Thanks Rich! Wil call ya if I dont spend all my money..

Carey

Carey, I would check the unit bearing on that left front. If that unit bearing is shot, it may be wobbling.

Are you running stock wheels and tires? The stock wheels are hub centric, so they're shouldn't be a huge load on the studs. If they're aftermarket wheels, most of them are lug centric and all the weight is on the lugs.

Is it doing it on that same location after you rotate tires? If it's doing it in the same location after you rotate tires, then I'd suspect the unit bearing. If it does it wherever that wheel is, then I'd suspect the wheel.

Instead of the stock studs, just pick up a set of ARP wheel studs. I wanna say a pack of 8 is like $30. You sure as heck won't be breaking those.

[ColoradoRVHauler]

Yeah I break a stud within 10000 miles after rotating tires.

My hub bearing is original, but its tight. I check them about every 2 weeks. I carry a 4 foot 2x4 and just jack up each front wheel real quick and check em. I figure it would be cheaper to fix before it welds itself together. I do dissamble the front end and grease the bearings every 75k miles thru the abs sensor hole. So far both of my front bearings are quiet and original. I made a tip from a blow gun adapted to be able to grease the bearings. I have been running I94 every week. The roads are real bad thru Wisc, Mn, and N. Dakota. Because they are all potholed from the winter.

Because of my huge bumper, I weigh right at 5000 on the front axle.

On the arp studs, they fit the hub bearing. They dont fit the adapter hat that is used so we can bolt a dually style wheel to the front.

Napa sells the studs for the bearing. Like 3-4 bucks each. Knowone except the dealer sells the studs used in the adapter. And of course the lugnut is different too, so its dealer only on that too. I havent found any parts stores that can even get a stud or lug nut for a 3500 dually. I wonder if the arp kit is for the bearing? Im thinkin it prolly is. If you could check on that for me, Id appreciate it. If you stock these for the adpater Ill order them tomorrow.

Coop. My steering has just went to hell in the last 25k or so miles. I just picked up a complete steering assembly from a rear hit 2008 3500 for 400 bucks. I got everything including the box and drag links. Truck had only 31k miles and all of the parts are way tighter than mine. Im gonna put that in soon as I can. Ive got about 1/8 or more of free play in my wheel and its comin from the box. I can spin the top shaft a huge amount before the pitman even begins to move. I figured since I could verify that the parts were low miles It would be best just to get it all.

I found a new take off alternator in Minneapolis for 75 bucks. The guy bought a block of vehicles that had been crash tested. One was a 2007 5.9 dodge truck.

The engine has never been ran. Its complete including injectors and turbo.. 7 grand. He said he is selling all the acessories off of the engine, so Im grabbing the alternator.

I think he should keep it complete, but he said he is only selling it long block form. Prolly figures he will make an extra 500 off of it or somethin.

I found a set of tires in nebraska from a junk yard that Ive bought parts and tires before. He got 4 generals from a 2009 dually that took a hard corner hit. They have 9k miles on em. 350 bucks. Then I found 2 more generals down the road for 125. They have 80% tread.

I got me a 5th wheel going to kearney, ne. So will deliver that thursday and then will go get me some new tires. So will be in a nice set for prolly under 600 installed. Those will run me till fall.

So will be in a set of tires, alternator and steering box for like 1100. Not too bad. A new set of tires is 1100. I found the fuel lines at the nebraska yard too for 75 bucks. Will pick up those too.

That will be enough for this month. Next month I will round up some injectors and drop em off at the injection shop so he can do em up in his spare time. If I get em switched out maybe by june or so that will be fine. My truck is running great, but I know thats not gonna last too much longer. Just want to be ready for it.

So this week is parts chasin week, lol Oh well, Ive put 25k miles on this truck in 6 weeks.. Its due.

Ive put the driveshaft, new ac system, new heater box with metal doors, and 1 injector in the last 2 months or so, so the stuff Im doing is prolly more maintaince like. I kinda figure all ths stuff was about due after 300k anyway.

Yeah Coop. Im planning to run mine to like a million too. You wont have much trouble with your injectors. 6.7's seem to go forever on injectors. Weve got guys with over 500k on 6.7 injectors. Very, very few make it to 500k on 5,9 injectors.

Generally 3-400k is about it on 5.9's if your lucky. Doing my laundry now. Nice to have a goof off day. Im the morn will switch out the alternator, and blast to elkhart then right to Kearney, Ne.

Carey

[cumminalong]

Carey,

Let me check the specs on the lugs for the DRW's.

I'm sure ARP has ones that'll fit.

[cumminalong]

Carey, I've got two hub extensions from an '06 here at the shop if you want to try a different hub extension and see if that's the problem.

We took them off of a truck that we did the DynaTrac Free Spin Kit on and they're just sitting here.

Pay the shipping on them and you can have them, they aren't doing me any good here.

[ColoradoRVHauler]

Maybe if the arp studs dont fit I might do that. I have leaned my big ass lol head out the window and watched the wheel. It looks to be tracking nice and straight. It doesnt seem to matter which rim is on either.

Breaking these studs has went on all winter. I did have a new set of tires put on last 1st of december. Maybe they air wrenched em too hard and weakened the studs. I have thought and thought why I keep breaking studs.. Just has me baffled.

Maybe the tires are out of balance. Surely not, but the older these tires have gotten, the more out of balance they seem.

Carter tire talked me into a set of goodyear GSA tires. Man they realy worked great on ice. But they never have seemed to roll well down the highway. I dont know the words, they just seem like a slug of a tire. Be happy to be rid of em.

They did save my butt in ice and snow though. They have tons of sipes in em.

Lets try a new set of tires and see what happens. I think the arp studs would be the better choice for what I do. But if not, that would be a great deal on the adapters. I cant really pass that up either. Do you think the adapter could be causing this?

[ColoradoRVHauler]

Holy mackerel! I just noticed your truck makes 1500 torque!!!! I have had semi engines making that torque!
What the heck kind of tranny do ya got? Can a stock crankshaft handle that?
Lets hear about your mods on your engine Rich!

Carey

[cumminalong]

Holy mackerel! I just noticed your truck makes 1500 torque!!!! I have had semi engines making that torque!
What the heck kind of tranny do ya got? Can a stock crankshaft handle that?
Lets hear about your mods on your engine Rich!

Carey

Yeah, she's got a little go to 'er.

:)

Stock bottom end on a Cummins is good up to around 800 HP. After that you need to swap connecting rods, on the CR's anyways, the 12V's and 24V's had much better rods.

Ya gotta remember, this same short block in the marine applications is pushing 800 HP in stock form.

Here's her current list of mods. All built in-house.....

Suncoast Full Billet Tranny w/ Mag-Hytec Double Deep Tranny Pan
ATS Aurora 3000 (57mm) / 5000 (71mm) Compound Turbos
ATS Sub Zero Intercooler
Stainless Steel Boost Tube
CFM+ Intake Manifold
ARP Head Studs
ARP Rocker Studs
Hamilton Diesel 110# Valve Springs
Billet Push Rods
PPE Dual CP3's
FASS 150
DDP 160hp injectors
Industrial Injection Dual Feed Line
ATS Exhaust Manifold
DiPricol EGT, 100 psi Boost & Rail Pressure Gauges in Autometer Triple A-Pillar
DiPricol Fuel Pressure Gauge on the steering column
Torque Converter Mystery Switch
4th Gear Mystery Switch
5" Magnaflow black dual exhaust
Edge Hot Juice w/ Attitude in an Autometer overhead mount
Smarty TNT/R
SRT10 Hood
SRT10 Night Runner Black Headlights
Smoked LED Tail & 3rd Brake Lights
Tow Mirrors
Linex Bed
Full Wheel Well Liners
Linex'd Westin Wheel to Wheel Step Bars
Black Pro Comp 8107 Wheels
305/65/17 Pro Comp Extreme AT's
Custom SRT6 badges by Steve Smart of billetbadges.com
Mag Hy-tec Front & Rear Diff Covers
MAXX Sway Bar End Links
Steering Box Brace

In the shop, just haven't installed yet:
Fire ring kit

Future upgrades that are planned:
Shaved, coated pistons
Billet, shot peened connecting rods
ARP main and cap studs
Balanced crank
75/150 HP shot of NoS
Line-X the lower portion of the body
Airbag the rear
Ladder bars

Current numbers 742 HP, 1492 TQ, 7.53 @ 94 MPH on the 1/8, 11.73 @ 117 on the 1/4.

Here's a little video of it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=azckLcopJGA

[cumminalong]

Maybe if the arp studs dont fit I might do that. I have leaned my big ass lol head out the window and watched the wheel. It looks to be tracking nice and straight. It doesnt seem to matter which rim is on either.

Breaking these studs has went on all winter. I did have a new set of tires put on last 1st of december. Maybe they air wrenched em too hard and weakened the studs. I have thought and thought why I keep breaking studs.. Just has me baffled.


More than likely, they weren't put on tight enough.

I had this happen to me doing about 70 down the interstate.

I had just had the new wheels and tires put on and I heard "thunk"....couple seconds later "thunk"....

I pulled over to find all the lug nuts on the driver side front able to be turned by hand. It snapped 2 of them and when I went to tighten them down, it snapped a 3rd.

The problem is the shops use those damn torque sticks and not a torque wrench.

The lug nuts on these trucks need to be tightened to 150 - 155 lbs.

[ColoradoRVHauler]

I have always torque em to 140. Thats what the lug nuts says. Ok I'll try that. Makes good since. Shoot we torque rv wheels to 120 and they are 1/2 inch studs. Ill try 150 and see what I get. Thanks for your help Rich.

Man, I watched that video. Freakin incredible. Lots of ATS parts too.. Good stuff. So far all I have been able to afford is a rear diff cover from ATS.

I went to Denver and picked it up. When I pulled in ATS's lot, it was like going to pickup diesel heaven, had all brands there totally tricked out like yours.

I looked over there intercooler, and single turbo.. Me wants! lol

I really like there 2 piece ex. manifold. Someday Im gonna have me there exhaust, turbo and intercooler on my truck.

So you like to drag race, very cool. Done tons of that as a kid. Eventually about 5 of us got together and built a 6.90 second 1/4 mile 88 tbird with a lingenfelter big block and lenco trans. We raced against super comp econo dragster rails in our tbird. In the 80's it was somethin special. Had a blast.

Before that I was involved in building a mini monster mud racing truck. Had like 4-5 foot tractor tires on a Courier body. We used an amc 401 nitrous engine and a t400. We contracted to guys and done intermission shows at monster truck events all over the western states. Man that was mid 80's. We were just kids, but had the kind of blast that I will never forget.

11 seconds in a 7000 lb dodge pickup is just incredible. Man, do you know how big of a gas engine it would take to motivate that dude like that. All I can say is it would be a dam big and nasty gas engine.

Thanks for your help. Will torque em all to 150 for the next trip.

Carey

[cumminalong]

I have always torque em to 140. Thats what the lug nuts says. Ok I'll try that. Makes good since. Shoot we torque rv wheels to 120 and they are 1/2 inch studs. Ill try 150 and see what I get. Thanks for your help Rich.



1/2" studs go to 120 - 125

9/16" studs go to 150 - 155

I know I'm probably telling you something you already know, but make sure the torque wrench you're using hasn't been cranked up for months. makes the spring very inaccurate.

[cumminalong]

So you like to drag race, very cool. Done tons of that as a kid. Eventually about 5 of us got together and built a 6.90 second 1/4 mile 88 tbird with a lingenfelter big block and lenco trans. We raced against super comp econo dragster rails in our tbird. In the 80's it was somethin special. Had a blast.

Before that I was involved in building a mini monster mud racing truck. Had like 4-5 foot tractor tires on a Courier body. We used an amc 401 nitrous engine and a t400. We contracted to guys and done intermission shows at monster truck events all over the western states. Man that was mid 80's. We were just kids, but had the kind of blast that I will never forget.

11 seconds in a 7000 lb dodge pickup is just incredible. Man, do you know how big of a gas engine it would take to motivate that dude like that. All I can say is it would be a dam big and nasty gas engine.


If you like that, you'll really like this.....

This is the Chevelle we have in the shop now. It's my partner's car.

I need to get some updated pics and videos, as the car is up and running now on a whole new ignition system (MSD Programmable 7-Plus). We just need to get it on the dyno and do the tuning.

On pump gas, at 15 psi, it should be making ~1000 HP. On race gas and boost turned up to 24-26 psi, it should be in the 1200 - 1400 range.

The goal is an 8 second car that gets driven to and from the track.

This a 496 BBC being stuffed by a Garret 4718 and fed by a CSU modified Holley 850. Turning a built Turbo 400 (getting swapped to a Power Glide) and a 12 bolt rear (getting swapped to a D60). All built in house, except the carb. Every piece of tube, pipe, flange, fitting, line, hose, etc, was built in house. The headers and piping are custom fabbed, the turbo pedestal is custom fabbed, intercooler is custom fabbed, overflow bottle, all the wiring, the cage, the 4-link rear, etc..... The only two pieces on this care that weren't done in house were the drive shaft and the carbureator.

You walk by the car and you think 10 - 11 sec car, then it comes to the line and you hear the turbo spool and 8.60's come up on the board. When it's idling, you'd never know it was being stuffed. This thing is such a sleeper, it's not even funny. I won't drive it, scares the crap out of me.

:cool:

http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll189/Cumminalong/Dohouse%20Diesel%20Pics/Sterling%20Fab/TomsChevelle2.jpg

http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll189/Cumminalong/Dohouse%20Diesel%20Pics/Sterling%20Fab/Slide3-1.jpg

http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll189/Cumminalong/Dohouse%20Diesel%20Pics/Sterling%20Fab/Slide1-9.jpg

http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll189/Cumminalong/Dohouse%20Diesel%20Pics/Sterling%20Fab/Slide2-9.jpg

[haulin rv]

Cool video!

[ColoradoRVHauler]

Now that I thought about it, we were running 7.90 in the 8.90 super comp class. We used a throttle stop to make it run 8.90. Could sand bag the hell out of em though.

Yea that chevelle would be scarry. Without a full chassis frame it makes it hard to control the power.

Well this place is about open. Better get the alternator switched out. I gambled that it would make it here. Its screamin, but it made it.

Carey

[haulin rv]

Good luck with the alternator and thanks for those search links. In journeys through the salvage yards if you ever come across a Mega cab rear ps door let me know:), mine got deer kicked.

[ColoradoRVHauler]

Ok, will do Haulin. Be cool to find a silver one. I switched out the alt. and its working good as new. Sure enough it is a brand new take off.

Yeah I always look at used parts 1st then if I cant do that I will buy from the parts stores as last resort. It really will save ya some money. But careful inspections are needed to not get ripped off. So yes its chancy but you will win more than you lose. Been buying used my whole life. lol Being the poor man I am..

The old alternator had a stiff spot in it. Surely couldnt have made it much longer, felt like a siezed bearing.

Sittting here in elkhart doin funny books and such. Another trip down. Off to the next one in the morn.

Carey

[ColoradoRVHauler]

My plan went well. Got me some new tires and some fuel lines for spares.

Nobody had a mega rear door. Both yards had front doors. Silver even. They said maga cab doors are pretty rare for nebraska. They said farmers generally dont buy em. They were full of crew cab doors.

Looks like I got another vancouver island trip to do. Sitting in Omaha now. I think I will replace my steering box tomorrow in elkhart and leave saturday. lol my tires have 2/32nds of wear on them. Look new to me. Got lucky again.

Carey

[smr500]

Carey, what yard did you go to? I live 70mi SE of Sapp Bros/Flying J - Omaha

[ColoradoRVHauler]

I went to Tri City in Holdredge. They move a ton of vehicles thru there. Since I go thru Holdredge often when leaving home I sorta happened onto them. I buy at least 4 tires a year there. The used car dealers in the area keep there tire inventories low so its a hit or miss thing with em.

I have a used tire dealer in Colorado Springs I use alot too. In the last few years I depleted his stock. He said by summer he should have another years worth for me. lol

I just put 4 on the rear today. My front goodyears still have 8/32nds left. There was a almost new set of wranglers at the tire shop down the street from my daughters house in seattle. Maybe I will buy those this trip.

Another yard by lexington had 2 more except they were bridgestones and where more mud and snow like, so I passed on em. He said he had generals the other day, but when he checked them this morn they were Bridgestones. Oh well, no biggie, got another month left on the front ones. I can get the goodyears in seattle for 120 and they are just barely worn. prolly 80% left on em.

Last december was the first set of new tires ive ever bought in 300k miles. Been running used ever since I started this. My tire bill each year is 1000-1200 for the entire year. Not bad for running 150-170k miles a year. Last year I spent 1800 cause I bought a new set. All the used tires I found was 1/2 tread or less, just decided its prolly safer to just get new for winter. Hopefully by fall my used guy will have a nice set for winter.

I inspect the inside of the tire and have yet to have any problem with used tires. Yes Im a bit anal about using used stuff, but hey this adds up to many 1000's by the end of the year. Paid 425 total price mounted and balanced for the 4 ameritracs I bought today. Bet I get 70k out of em.

[smr500]

Buying used is not a bad business practice if you do good inspections as you do. I wonder how many 19.5's are out there in the yard? Probably not many. thanks for the low down on the yards

[haulin rv]

Tires are something I've done used since I've been hauling. It has always been too close money wise. I can do 4 new Firestone Transforce HT's and be right $625.

Now I do need to get one of those ac compressors, I've tried a couple times but its always been busy.

[ColoradoRVHauler]

Yeah thats why I have decided to stick with 17 inch tires. 19.5s are expensive and no used is available. Yep haulin if you can find new for somethin comparable thats great.

Here in elkhart ht's are 155 each. They want 675-700 for 4 mounted and balanced. In colorado ht's are 175 each. So buying used makes since if you can either find smoking deals on 1/2 treads, 30-40 bucks, or 100 dollar or less low mileage tires.

Got one up to merrville, bc. Its on the island. 2465 miles and pays 1.23. Pays 3031. Its a 29 foot mid pro 5er. Getting a few more cents on the surcharge. Just cant pass em up.

Better hook on er and get rollin. Installed the steering yesterday. Boy truck sure steers better now. I replaced all the rods with used too. Done my own toe settings with a tape measure. Drives much better now.

Carey

[haulin rv]

When you buy new try Tire Rack, I usually get there price then my local Discount Tire matches them. Or being tax exempt in Indiana stop and pick them up and have Walmart mount them.

My last set I bought were General's and they have worn quicker than any other set I've ran. I'm going back to Firestone's for the next set, unless I can magically find the extra 2g's for 19.5's:rolleyes:.

[ColoradoRVHauler]

hmmm Ive had great luck with generals. Maybe they have changed something on the new ones. Yeah for you 19.5s would make since. You dont have to drive like a crazy man anymore. The way the have been rolling me I better stick to whats cheap. RV haulers have to live on others trash if we want to make a decent living. Hell you got er made haulin.

Carey

[haulin rv]

Got it made?? Tell that to my check book:D. My first set of General's (factory) Went right at 100k, Firestones about the same (30k rv hauling, 70k cars), and this set of Generals will be lucky to make 60k. Same rotations and air pressure.

On my old Dodge I had the same thing happen with a set of BFG commercials, they wore out at all kinds of different intervals. Heck one of the rears got below 30% when the other was still 75%. They ended up warranty replacing all 6 and it took them 10 to get those 6 to balance. Now I had ran them before with good luck.

[Roadmedic]

I get over 80,000 on the Firestone tires on the rear.

I get about 130,000 on the fronts and usually do not bother with the rotation.

[Roadmedic]

hmmm Ive had great luck with generals. Maybe they have changed something on the new ones. Yeah for you 19.5s would make since. You dont have to drive like a crazy man anymore. The way the have been rolling me I better stick to whats cheap. RV haulers have to live on others trash if we want to make a decent living. Hell you got er made haulin.

Carey


I always buy new and seem to still be making a decent living. I also work to have wholesale buying power at a couple of auto shops and some dealers.

I also have a friend who owns a repair shop and buy parts through it at their cost as well.

[ColoradoRVHauler]

As much as my truck keeps breakin down I better stick with used tires, lol

Carey