Rear driveshaft shot again

[ColoradoRVHauler]

Have been having some vibrations in the rear driveshaft. I delivered another to Vancouver Island. Made it to the daughters house in Seattle late yesterday. Check the ujoints this morn. They are way loose. 2 are real bad.

Im really sick of this 2 piece driveline. I paid 500 110k miles ago to have a new bearing and joints installed plus a custom balance job.

Now the ujoints need it again. Carrier bearing is noisy too.

So... I ordered a 6 inch diameter aluminum 1 piece from doghouse diesel. 525 and that included overnight shipping to Seattle from Georgia. Will be here thursday

Will see how this works out. Hopefully Im finally rid of that garbage 2 piece driveshaft.

Here is a link to what I ordered today. http://www.doghousediesel.com/catalog/i259.html (http://www.doghousediesel.com/catalog/i259.html)

He said he has sold a bunch to hotshotters who are pulling way overweight and has yet to have a failure.

Will let you all know how it works out. Didnt want to take the time off, but I am NOT putting anymore money in this garbage of a driveshaft.

Carey

[short stack]

i hope it works. i've replaced 4 sets of u-joints, 3 hanger bearings and am on the 2nd drive shaft on my 04 with only 180000 miles
mark

[shstransport]

I can see it stopping the carrier bearing problem but unless it upgrades the u-joints you still have a problem there.

[haulin rv]

Not for use on 2WD trucks. The size of the driveshaft WILL cause contact with the crossmember under certain load conditions in 2WD trucks.


Counts me out.....

[ColoradoRVHauler]

He said the ujoints are upgraded to 1450's. Stock is 1410's. Not worried about replacing ujoints. The carrier bearing drives me nuts. Im on my 4th in 300k miles. One of these days Im not going to catch it in time and it will melt itself to the driveshaft.

Might as well get rid of the problem now. I have sunk a good 8-900 into this driveshaft in 300k miles. The ujoints on the aluminum one will last longer too, since they are larger.

Yeah, haulin I seen that about 2 wheel drives. I bet they could make one smaller and use thicker tube to give ya clearance.

This is one of those things that drives me nuts on my truck. I understand parts fail. I dont go for carrier bearings lasting 75k miles or ujoints only making 100k. Plus the driveshaft is never smoth being that the carrier bearing is always loose. The ujoints are too small from the factory which kills there life.

Carrier bearings cost around 60 bucks and cost another 25 to have pressed on. They are made in china and the rubber is very loose in the housing right from the start. The factory one is much weaker than what can be found at napa. Mine spun in the rubber at 50k miles because the bearing had overheated. I caught that just barely in time.

About all I can say is until you have many repeated problems it doesnt get to you. Well, its gotten to me, I want rid of the garbage in my truck.

Carey

[ColoradoRVHauler]

i hope it works. i've replaced 4 sets of u-joints, 3 hanger bearings and am on the 2nd drive shaft on my 04 with only 180000 miles
mark


Your prolly about sick of this problem too, Mark.

[short stack]

i actually fixed it right the last time
i got into this fl60 lol
i now use the pick up like you use a chevy; grocery store and church lol
mark

[ColoradoRVHauler]

i actually fixed it right the last time
i got into this fl60 lol
i now use the pick up like you use a chevy; grocery store and church lol
mark

Thats prolly a great idea. Trying to use a pickup like a semi is gonna be a real challenge. I dont know if I can keep up with it either. :(

Carey

[tdsuperd]

How's that new driveshaft working out??, smoother I bet. I just did the carrier

bearing and u-joints 20 thousand ago wish I would have sent this better part

out there....seems like the way to go. I gotta do the fronts here so too, damn

things wear way to fast. I was looking into the free wheel hubs, that would

take care of the fronts spinning all the time but, 1500-2000 is a steep price.

I'll just replace the U-joints for that. I bought the ones with the zerks for the

front, seems like that will help.

T

[ColoradoRVHauler]

The driveshaft is smoooth! Love it! Its ginormous! Looks like a sewer pipe is under my truck! lol

I put 1500 miles on it from seattle to colorado. No more shudder on take off. I didnt realize how much the 2 piece shaft creates this shudder till it was gone.

This is prolly one of the better mods ive done along with metal heater doors.

The ujoints are the next size bigger. 1 and 3/8ths bearing caps versus 1.18 bearing caps.

This shaft weighs 20lbs or so less than the 2 piece. It should be easier on the ujoints because of that too.

I got 270k out of the front axle joints. My front drive shaft is still all original... 300670 miles and still original... My secret.. It comes out from May 1st to Oct. 1st. Will be rebuilding the front shaft here is about a month or so when it comes out for summer.

Carey

[ColoradoRVHauler]

This driveshaft is a dodge factory part this guy is selling.

There is about 10 different aluminum driveshafts available for 2009 and up model year trucks.

Dodge will not let you buy one and go see if it fits. Its not returnable.

I read on TDR forum that there was a couple different shafts used in 2009 that could fit my truck. One fits the others dont.

They wanted 600 at the local seattle dealers for an aluminum driveshaft. Didnt want to chance it on the wrong one. The doghouse diesel guy has figured out all the part numbers so, since his price was cheaper even after overnight air frieght (525) I went with him. He didnt tell me that the shaft was a factory part. But thats fine. I wanted rid of the 2 piece shaft. Anyway, my aluminum driveshaft is a factory dodge part.

I will post the part number in a bit. Its in the truck and Im busy working on my kids rc rock crawler.

Carey

[Dorsey]

You wouldn't be interested in any more rc cars would you? I have one for sale.:D

[tdsuperd]

Damn shutter! I had my driveshaft custom balanced also to get rid of the shutter....still there, better, but still there. Drives me nuts after that time and $$...


I tried that pull the front shaft trick.... when I was trying to figure out were the start off shutter was coming from. Funny I was thinking to myself the other day " bet I could just pull it in the summer and save those front U-joints. Knowing me thats when I would get stuck somewhere and who ever pulls me out would say " ain't that a 4X4:D sure looks like a 4X4".

[ColoradoRVHauler]

Damn shutter! I had my driveshaft custom balanced also to get rid of the shutter....still there, better, but still there. Drives me nuts after that time and $$...


I tried that pull the front shaft trick.... when I was trying to figure out were the start off shutter was coming from. Funny I was thinking to myself the other day " bet I could just pull it in the summer and save those front U-joints. Knowing me thats when I would get stuck somewhere and who ever pulls me out would say " ain't that a 4X4:D sure looks like a 4X4".

I just put the front shaft in the toolbox. Yeah wouldnt help much if I was stuck in mud.. I even pulled the axle shafts last summer to see if a freewheel kit would pay for itself. I learned it would take a long time. I gained .1 mpg by letting the front wheels spin free. It did drive smoother though and had a lighter steering feel.

Same here. Paid about 150 to have it pro balanced. Didnt get rid of it either.

Next time your due up for a shaft, just grab a motel and have em overnight you an aluminum one. By the time you have new joints and a new bearing installed you wouldnt be far off of just getting the alum. Yes you still have ujoints to replace, but you are eliminating one ujoint, a carrier bearing, and lots of driveshaft shudder.

[ColoradoRVHauler]

You wouldn't be interested in any more rc cars would you? I have one for sale.:D

What do you got Dorsey? My kid is pretty much into rock crawlers, but never know.

He has a couple axial crawlers that are always needing something. Still a fun hobby for a 17 yr old. Beats the things I was doing when I was 17, lol <wink>

Carey

[ColoradoRVHauler]

Part number is 52123162AA

This is for a 2006 QC long bed dually G56 4x4

I dont know the part numbers for anything else. If you go search on TDR many of the part numbers are still a toss up to what they fit.

I think the dodge internet power sellers are selling them for about the same price as the doghouse guy, 475-500 plus shipping.

Carey

[tdsuperd]

I found the part for my truck on the doghouse site. 05 with a auto. 20 bucks more for the auto. I will get it for sure when this one need maintenance again.

I used to race RC oval track cars from 10-16, was great for me. That when I found my mechanical side, I had a blast. Then 16 and it all changed!

[Dorsey]

I have a Mugen MBX5R. It's a buggy. I bought it abought 1 1/2 years ago and only used it a hand full of times. I bought the kit for about $550 and added the motor and electronics to it. It probaly cost me around 1200-1500 after all said and done but I would let it go for way less. I know Mugen came out with a newer model shortly after so it is out dated but I'll let it go for cheap. It's basically brand new. I have slot of parts for it too but that would be a seperate cost. I've been planning on taking it apart and selling all the parts seperatly on eBay. I use to be really in to racing. Wasn't much good at driving the buggy but I could tear some butt up in the monster truck class.

[NDanecker]

I had the same problem and replaced it with a custom made steel 1 piece shaft with stock u-joints (but with grease fittings for maintenence). So far after 60k+ miles and towing heavy no problems. Cost me around $400 bucks or so. Buying the aluminum from Dodge is also a good route, IMO. Just make sure you get the right one.

The 2 piece is just a bad design. No matter what you do it will be impossible to get it shimmed right. As soon as you load it down it changes the shaft angles and creates excessive stress/binding on the u-joints and center bearing. Right way is to go to 1 piece.

What do the 4500 and 5500's have????

[ColoradoRVHauler]

I have a Mugen MBX5R. It's a buggy. I bought it abought 1 1/2 years ago and only used it a hand full of times. I bought the kit for about $550 and added the motor and electronics to it. It probaly cost me around 1200-1500 after all said and done but I would let it go for way less. I know Mugen came out with a newer model shortly after so it is out dated but I'll let it go for cheap. It's basically brand new. I have slot of parts for it too but that would be a seperate cost. I've been planning on taking it apart and selling all the parts seperatly on eBay. I use to be really in to racing. Wasn't much good at driving the buggy but I could tear some butt up in the monster truck class.

Sorry Dorsey, been busy. Man thats a fast lil buggy. I'll have to have my kid you tube that dude.

Carey

[ColoradoRVHauler]

Im grossing 22k on the way back to Vancouver Island. I love this alum driveshaft. I can back up now and not shake my teeth out. This baby is smoooth!

Carey

[cumminalong]

Guys,

This is Rich from Doghouse Diesel Performance.

Don't take this as an advertisement, that's not what it's about. I get questions on the driveshafts all the time and saw Auto Expeditors pop up on the site's analytics, so I wanted to make sure that if you had questions on it, they got answered.

Some of the common questions we get on this shaft.

Q - Will it fit my truck?

A1 - These are factory shafts that Dodge started using on the '09 and up Ram HD's. The shafts are designed to be used with the 48RE and 68RFE auto's and the G56 manual. They ARE NOT desinged to fit trucks with the NV5600. They work on QC/LB's and MC/SB auto's from 03 - 09 and G56 manual trucks. 4WD only.

A2 - Depending on your truck, there are 4 different part numbers for these shafts. Unlike some folks, I have factory access to Chrysler's Dealer Connect system and Star Parts. If you want the right one for your truck, I need the last 9 of your VIN and the current mileage.


Q - How much power and weight can they handle?

A - The most I have seen go through this shaft is a customer of mine in Arizona. He runs and 8" lift, 37" tires, puts 587 HP to the ground and tows a toy hauler with his Jeep in it.


Q - Does the driveshaft come fully assembled?

A - Yes, the driveshaft is complete with 1450 equivalent u-joints, slip yoke and pinion flange. It takes longer to remove the old shaft than it does to put the new one in. With basic hand tools, you're looking at a 20 min swap.


Q - How do I know if I need to replace the carrier bearing / u-joints.

A - A sure sign that your carrier bearing is shot is if you feel a shudder on acceleration and deceleration around 5 - 15 MPH. If you feel this, climb under the truck and you'll likely find the rubber isolator around the carrier bearing is shot. If you replace the center carrier, both u-joints and pay for the labor, you are usually within $100 of buying the 1-piece shaft and being done with the problem.


Q - Other than getting rid of the center carrier bearing, what other advantage does the 1-piece aluminum shaft offer?

A1 - Because of the increase length, you decrease the operating angle of the u-joints by nearly half, thereby decreasing the frequency they'd need to be changed.

A2 - You lose approx 20 lbs of rotating weight. This not only reduces the chances of vibration, but for each pound of rotating weight you lose, it's equivalent to losing 10 lbs of static weight in terms of performance and mileage. That 20 lbs of rotating weight equates to 200 lbs of static weight.


Q - I have a lift kit, will it fit?

A1 - It depends. For lifts up to 4", it fits perfect. For 6" lifts, it usaully fits without issue, but sometimes requires a 1" aluminum spacer and longer harware for the pinion end that we fabricate at the shop. For 8" lifts, you must use the spacer.

A2 - Now, for you NV5600 guys. If you have a 6" or larger lift, the driveshaft works perfect. The only reason it doesn't fit a stock height truck with an NV5600 is because the NV5600 is about 1.5" longer than the G56 and the slip yoke bottoms out. On lifted trucks, it works perfect. We are currently working on a 1-piece shaft for the NV5600 trucks, but DO NOT have one done at a reasonable price yet.

Below are some pics of shaft. If you have any questions on it, please don't hesitate to ask. I'm on many of the usual forums and go by the same screen name.

http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll189/Cumminalong/Dohouse%20Diesel%20Pics/Doghouse1-PieceDriveshaft.jpg

http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll189/Cumminalong/Dohouse%20Diesel%20Pics/1piecealumDS3.jpg

http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll189/Cumminalong/Dohouse%20Diesel%20Pics/driveshaftjoint2.jpg

http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll189/Cumminalong/Dohouse%20Diesel%20Pics/Driveshaftjoint1.jpg

[Buster]

GOOD STUFF DOGHOUSE!!! Thanks for the info.

[cumminalong]

No problem at all.

;)

[h2oskibumz]

geez, I need your clone to research this on GM trucks!! I have had plenty of U and carrier bearing issues on mine and this sort of solution would be super...

Thanks for sharing, I know this will help a number of the guys here.

[LBZ]

Hey Rich, do you know any of the guys over at Mclendon trailer? Bought my last wedge down in Phenix City...

[cumminalong]

Hey Rich, do you know any of the guys over at Mclendon trailer? Bought my last wedge down in Phenix City...

Can't say that I've heard of them, but that's not saying much.

I have a couple of the local trailer builders that I get plate steel and tubing from.

There's a quite a few trailer dealers around here. Between Columbus, PC, Opelika, Auburn, etc....there's probably a dozen.

[ColoradoRVHauler]

Hey Rich! Carey here. I bet you remember me. You overnighted me the shaft to Bonney Lake, Wa.

Ive got about 10k miles on the shaft already. Here is what I have noticed.

Smooth as silk.
Rides better.
No shutter.
Better fuel mpgs by about .3-.4. Cant really say if it the shaft. I know we just switched from winter fuel to summer fuel. I run on the north side of the US and they just now switched over.

And just wanted to say Rich is a cool guy and was very knowledgeable and patient with me on the phone.

AND you beat all the seattle dodge dealers by over 100 bucks.

This has been one of the best mods Ive done to my truck yet.

Will be buying other things from you Rich. You done me good.

Carey

[cumminalong]

Glad to here it's working good for you, Carey.

If there's anything you need, just give us a holler and we'll get it to you.

We don't have just the high HP, race truck parts. I know most of you guys are looking at the common sense parts that'll last for hundreds of thousands of miles of towing. We have clutches, upgraded brakes, exhaust brakes, air bags, shocks, tires, etc.

Heck, if you're stuck on the side of the road and have something break, as long as it's before 2 PM, we can usually have it to you the next day. We've got 19 different warehouses in different parts of the country, so even using normal shipping, you can usually have parts within 2 days without using expedited shipping.

:)

It's funny to see guys faces when they pick the driveshaft up here at the shop. The first words out of their mouth are usually, "Holy $#!^, that thing is huge!"

:D

Now, before folks start to think that the 2-piece drive shaft is the cause of every vibration, here's is what we normally find on trucks that come in to the shop.

2 out of 3 that have the 2-piece drive shaft and are over 70K miles have some kind of center carrier bearing issue. Either the isolator is shot or the bearing itself is shot.

Where you normally notice the vibration from a u-joint or the center bearing is at 5 - 15 MPH on acceleration or deceleration. That's usually a pretty certain indicator.

Now, if your vibration is at higher speeds (40 - 60 MPH) it's likely not a bearing or joint, it's likely your tires. This is second biggest vibration issue we see.

I'm not talking an out-of-balance issue; I'm talking an out-of-round problem. The tires may balance fine, but are shaped like a football. Easy way to detect this is chock the front wheels, lift the rear axle and let the tires turn. If the tire is out of round, you'll see it. To check the fronts, you either need all tires of the ground or swap them to the back. Then it's either get the tire shaved or get a new tire. This is the second most common cause we see.

The third most common vibration issue we see is clutches and TC's that are either shot (worn out, over heated, or have broken springs on the dual mass flywheels on the G56's) or they were improperly installed.

After that you start seeing the smaller, less common items. Brake rotors, front u-joints, wheel bearings, bent axle shafts, etc....

But, if you have a 2-piece shaft, the first thing is usually that center carrier bearing. Let it go too long and it takes out the u-joints and then the pinion bearing.

[cumminalong]

Here's one of our customers whose truck we built specifically for towing his stuff.

This picture was taken on top of the Overland Pass.

http://www.doghousediesel.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/webassets/WaltLovelandPass.jpg

Some of the stuff we did on this truck include:

R700 twin turbos
BD intercooler
AirDog 150 fuel pump
90 HP DDP injectors
Pac-Brake exhaust brake
Firestone Airbags
Dynatrac Free Spin Hub Kit
1-piece drive shaft
EBC USR rotors and GreenStufff 7000 pads
tons of other small items

Strapped him to the dyno, got him tuned, put down 626 HP / 1226 lbs of torque and 2 weeks later he took the picture above.

He already had an ATS transmission in the truck, so it could handle the power mods we did to it. He runs an 18K SuperGlide hitch and has a 90 gal TransferFlow tank in the bed.

[ccoop769]

I like them new 6.4's w/ power. Internals arent like a cummins but gosh, just add an XRT to a stock 6.4 and your pushing 6oohp on the dyno. Anyways, off subject here!!! Sorry, i just got a little speed devil inside of me that likes smoking trucks w/ stacks, maybe 1 day I will get rid of the grocery getter minivan for a somtin a lil bigger!!!

[cumminalong]

I like them new 6.4's w/ power. Internals arent like a cummins but gosh, just add an XRT to a stock 6.4 and your pushing 6oohp on the dyno. Anyways, off subject here!!! Sorry, i just got a little speed devil inside of me that likes smoking trucks w/ stacks, maybe 1 day I will get rid of the grocery getter minivan for a somtin a lil bigger!!!

Well.....I'm not really a stack guy, but.....I'll gladly drop a little smoke and tire rubber on occassion.

Here's my daily driver....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=azckLcopJGA

[ccoop769]

Sucks these are 4wd only. Spent 1 hour today just to figure that out. Was about to drop the coin and overnight or buy at dodge. Dissappointed, knew this thread was here, just didnt read it fully today till now. Would of saved me an hour of research.

Spent $287 today on new joints, boots, carrier bearing, rebalancing.... Stock carrier 370,000 miles, front and middle joint had 220,000 miles. Rear just replaced this week already. Hopefully she is smooth as butter in morning when I put it back up......